sample seam with title "traditional pojagi patchwrok seam"

Traditional pojagi tutorial for hand-stitched reversible patchwork

In this style of pojagi patchwork, the seam is completely finished on both sides. This makes the piece reversible, with no right or wrong side.

1. Baste

Lay one piece of fabric over the other piece. Offset the edges by about 1/4”. Baste the two pieces together with a large stitch. These stitches will be removed later, so thread doesn’t really matter. This is a good chance to use up thread left over from other projects.

pink and white fabric basted together

2. Fold & Press

Line up a ruler so that it’s just under 1/4″ from the edge of the top fabric. With a Hera marker, press firmly in a back and forth motion against the edge of the ruler

creasing a fabric with a ruler and hera market

Don’t do this directly on a table or counter, as it might leave marks on the surface. An old magazine or pad of paper will protect your furniture.

The Hera will leave an easily-visible crease.

pink and white fabrics basted together

Fold the two pieces on the crease, away from each other, leaving the seam allowances in the middle.

fabrics folded together for pojagi seam

3. Stitch

Thread the needle with thread to match your fabric and knot the end. Bring up the knot into the seam allowance and make overcast stitches through both pieces of fabric.

stitching an overcast pojagi seam

The needle should go through perpendicular to the fabric, and the stitches should be slanted. Keep the spacing as even as possible. When you get to end, knot the thread and cut off the tail.

close up of overcast stitches

4. Open, Re-fold & Press

Open the pieces. They should lay flat. If they don’t, it’s because the stitches were pulled too tight, and tension needs to be loosened.

pink and white fabric joined with overcast seam folded over

Line up the ruler with the edge of the upper fabric. It should be about 1/4″ to the seam. Mark the lower fabric with the Hera.

creasing fabric with ruler and hera marker

Fold the lower fabric up over the edge of the upper.

folidng down seam allowance

Open the fabric, so that the seam is on top, with all raw edges hidden.

creasing pink fabric with a hera marker

Align the ruler with the edge of the fold of the top fabric, and mark the lower fabric with the Hera.

close up of pojagi seam folds

Fold the lower fabric away from the upper, so that all the raw edges are trapped inside the seam.

5. Stitch

Now overcast stitch on that side of the seam in the same way as the other stitching.

overcast stitching on a pojagi seam

When it is opened, there are two lines of stitching visible. One line is straight and the other is slanted.

finished stitching with pink and white fabric

Remove the basting thread.

final pojagi seam with white and pink fabric

You’re done!

Want to use this technique in a project?

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elizabeth decroos

Elizabeth DeCroos

designer, teacher, speaker

Elizabeth enjoys doing all types of sewing and needlework and teaching others new techniques. For more information or to have her speak to your group click HERE.

sample seam with title "Pojagi: traditional Korean patchwork"

Lined pojagi patchwork seam tutorial

another method of traditional Korean patchwork

sample seam with title "how to sew a modern pojagi patchwork seam"

Modern pojagi patchwork seam tutorial

stitching the reversible pojagi seam by machine

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