How to stitch a reversible pojagi seam by hand

Pojagi is an ancient Korean art form. Women used to make wrapping cloths for storing and carrying household and personal items.

There are a few different techniques used in making pojagi. Lined pojagi has a backing fabric and is similar in some ways to western quilting. See how to stitch a lined pojagi seam here.

In unlined pojagi patchwork, the seam is completely finished on both sides. This makes the piece reversible, with no right or wrong side. That is what you will learn in this article.

If you prefer sewing by machine, I have adapted this technique. This is what I use to make my patchwork window hangings that look like stained glass. See how to make this seam by machine here.

See it all

Below you will find:

• video tutorial
• supplies needed
• written tutorial with pictures
• ideas for using this technique in a project

Supplies needed

Materials

This can be stitched with any fabric and thread combination. The pictures in the tutorial are lightweight silk fabric and fine silk thread. In the video, I use linen and perle cotton.

Historically, this type of patchwork was designed to use what you had, so feel free to experiment with different fabric and thread combinations.

Tools

Only a few simple tools are required for this technique. Besides basic hand-sewing supplies, like a needle and scissors, you also need the following:

Ruler

Any small ruler is fine. A quilting ruler is not required, but it can be helpful to measure 1/4″.

Hera marker

A hera marker can be a new tool for western quilters. This tool marks the fabric by making small creases. These creases are easy to see, but disappear with time.

Once you use a hera marker, you will think of other uses for it. Check out these five ways to use a hera marker in sewing and quilting.

Tutorial

Follow these steps to stitch the reversible pojagi seam by hand.

1. Baste

Lay one piece of fabric over the other piece. Offset the edges by about 1/4”. Baste the two pieces together with a large stitch. These stitches will be removed later, so thread doesn’t really matter. This is a good chance to use up thread left over from other projects.

2. Fold & Press

Line up a ruler so that it’s just under 1/4″ from the edge of the top fabric. With a Hera marker, press firmly in a back and forth motion against the edge of the ruler

Don’t do this directly on a table or counter, as it might leave marks on the surface. An old magazine or pad of paper will protect your furniture.

The Hera will leave an easily-visible crease.

Fold the two pieces on the crease, away from each other, leaving the seam allowances in the middle.

3. Stitch

Thread the needle with thread to match your fabric and knot the end. Bring up the knot into the seam allowance and make overcast stitches through both pieces of fabric.

The needle should go through perpendicular to the fabric, and the stitches should be slanted. Keep the spacing as even as possible. When you get to end, knot the thread and cut off the tail.

4. Open, Re-fold & Press

Open the pieces. They should lay flat. If they don’t, it’s because the stitches were pulled too tight, and tension needs to be loosened.

Line up the ruler with the edge of the upper fabric. It should be about 1/4″ to the seam. Mark the lower fabric with the Hera.

Fold the lower fabric up over the edge of the upper.

Open the fabric, so that the seam is on top, with all raw edges hidden.

Align the ruler with the edge of the fold of the top fabric, and mark the lower fabric with the Hera.

Fold the lower fabric away from the upper, so that all the raw edges are trapped inside the seam.

5. Stitch

Now overcast stitch on that side of the seam in the same way as the other stitching.

When it is opened, there are two lines of stitching visible. One line is straight and the other is slanted.

Remove the basting thread. It should come out easily.

That’s how easy it is to stitch this seam.

Notice that one row of stitching is on a slant and the other is straight.

Using this seam in a project

This seam can be used to make wrapping cloths or any other patchwork items where you do not want batting or backing fabric.

It is used in this linen snowflake table runner.

If you are designing your own project, just keep in mind that these seams do not follow the same rules as traditional patchwork seams. They are very different. Read about the difference between the seams.

I learned this lesson from experience when I made the piece “Never Again”. It is made with this technique and looks like a western quilting design. I won’t make that mistake again.

Have fun playing with this technique and making beautiful things.

Be sure to #epidastudio when you share your projects on social media!