Simple method to sew a modern pojagi patchwork seam

This seam is used to make reversible patchwork with the seam finished on both sides.

It is commonly used in stained glass window hangings.

If you have problems with the technique, scroll down for troubleshooting tips.

Tutorial

If you are using fabrics that have a clear right and wrong side, place the fabrics wrong sides together.

1. Stitch

Have one of the fabrics sticking out about 1/4″. Don’t worry about measuring because it doesn’t have to be exact. Eyeballing it is good enough.

Stitch the seam about 1/4” from the edge of the inner fabric. Again, the 1/4″ seam doesn’t have to be exact, so don’t stress over it. Close enough really is good enough for this. It’s more important to try to keep the edges of the fabric and the stitching line parallel.

2. Fold & Press

Press the seam allowance down over the raw edges of the shorter piece. Be careful not to burn your fingers! If you have trouble with the iron, the other method of this seam will be better.

3. Open & Press

Press the seam open, being careful not to disturb the seam allowances that were already pressed.

4. Stitch

Topstitch right along the edge of the folded seam allowance. If you feel more comfortable, you can use an edge stitching foot to help, but with practice you will just be able to eyeball it.

About the seam

On one side of the finished piece, you see two stitching lines. On the other side, you only see one stitching line, but the seam is finished on both sides. All the raw edges are tucked away inside.

Don’t worry about what side of the seam is the “right side” treat it as reversible. It won’t matter if all your seams go the same way.

If you do garment sewing, this seam might look familiar to you as it’s basically a flat fell seam. Using this in patchwork will open a world of possibilities.

Troubleshooting tips

Problems? These tips will help.

Seam hard to press?

This seam technique involves lots of pressing. If you are finding the pressing difficult, try the Alternate Pojagi Seam Technique.

Thick fabric?

To stitch this seam with a thick fabric like blanketing, try the Pojagi Seam for Thick Fabric Technique.

Don’t understand seam allowances?

Pojagi seam allowances are totally different than 1/4″ seam allowances. Learn about the differences between the types of seams.

More questions

Get answers to a lot more questions on the Pojagi Patchwork FAQ page.

Use in a project

Learn more about reversible patchwork and get inspiration for using it in a project.