What foot should I use for pojagi seams?

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This seam technique is totally different from a 1/4” quilting seam.

But when you are stitching the seam, what foot should you use on your sewing machine?

This is a personal choice, but here are some options and my opinion.

1. Standard foot

Your standard foot that came on your machine will work fine. There is no requirement for a specialty foot. But if you have specialty feet already, should you try them?

2. Basic Quarter inch foot

A quarter inch foot is designed to be used as a guide to help you get an accurate seam allowance. I have some personal opinions about relying on a 1/4” foot for accuracy. (Spoiler: I don’t think you can rely on a foot alone – but that’s another video).

But since pojagi patchwork isn’t precision piecing, a quarter inch foot can be helpful.

In the first step of the seam, you are stitching approximately 1/4” away from the edge of the top fabric, so this foot will help.

In the second step of the seam, you are top stitching, so the quarter inch foot won’t help, but it won’t hurt either.

If you have a basic 1/4” foot, you might want to try it.

3. Quarter inch foot with guide

Some 1/4” feet come with a guide, which is a little wall on the side. It is designed so that when you are sewing regular 1/4” seams, you can run your fabric along that and it helps keep everything in line.

I don’t recommend this foot for pojagi seams.

For the first step of the seam, you are stitching 1/4” away from the edge of the top fabric, but the bottom fabric is more than 1/4” wide. We don’t want that to get caught up in the guide bar.

For the second part of the seam, you are top stitching, to the guide is not only useless, it can make it more difficult to stitch.

I have had students switch back and forth between quarter inch feet and top stitching feet, but when I am sewing, I don’t want to change the foot for every seam. If you want to do this, go ahead, but I don’t think it is worth the effort.

4. Flat fell foot

If you are from the dressmaking world, you will recognize that a pojagi patchwork seam is the same as a flat felled seam. (If you’re wondering why I call it a pojagi seam, you can check out my other video about that.)

Some sewing machines have a special flat fell seam foot. This is tempting to use because it does all the folding of your seams in one step so it saves a lot of time.

If you have this foot, I recommend to proceed with caution.

When you are sewing two plain pieces of fabric, it is wonderful.

But in patchwork, you quickly begin stitching over other seams. This foot isn’t designed to sew over bulky seams. When stitching over seams, go slowly and carefully.

I had the experience of using a foot like this and it threw off the timing of my sewing machine. After that, I hesitate to recommend it.

This foot also might make your seams a little wider than you want. It is harder to adjust the seam width.

So if you have this foot and want to try it out, go ahead. You might like it, just be aware of the potential issues. If you don’t have this foot, I would hesitate before investing in buying one.

So my top recommendation for sewing machine foot is a basic foot or a 1/4” foot without a guide.

I don’t recommend buying anything fancy.

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